BRUSSELS, Belgium – The European Union has banned a key chemical used in gel nail polishes and other cosmetics, citing reproductive health risks in a move set to shake up the beauty industry.
The substance, Trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO), has been classified as toxic to reproduction.
Its manufacture, sale, and use are now prohibited across all EU member states effective this week.
TPO acts as a photoinitiator, triggering the hardening process when gel polish is cured under ultraviolet (UV) or LED light.
The ingredient is central to the durability and glossy finish that have made gel manicures popular worldwide.
Salons to seek safer alternatives
The ban means salons and retailers in Europe must immediately withdraw products containing TPO and transition to safer substitutes.
Regulators said the prohibition followed studies that raised concerns about reproductive toxicity in animals.
For many consumers, gel polish has been more than a beauty trend—its chip resistance and long-lasting shine have made it a mainstay in salons.
But EU officials say public health outweighs convenience.
Different rules in U.S. and elsewhere
Unlike Europe, the United States still permits TPO, reflecting a divergence in regulatory approaches.
The EU follows a hazard-based model, focusing on the inherent risks of a substance regardless of exposure level, while the U.S. uses a risk-based framework that weighs potential harm against actual exposure.
The contrast highlights a recurring debate: why substances restricted in Europe continue to circulate in other markets, including Africa.
In Kenya, for example, gel nail polishes containing TPO remain widely available in salons and retail outlets.
Industry impact
The ban is expected to push manufacturers to develop new formulations that can deliver the same fast-drying, glossy results without compromising safety.
For salon operators, the adjustment could be costly but ultimately necessary to maintain compliance and consumer trust.
“This is about balancing beauty with safety,” one EU official noted, underscoring that protecting health will increasingly define the future of cosmetics regulation.
