NAIROBI, Kenya – Kenya’s manufacturing sector has raised concerns over the future of the country’s textile and apparel industry, warning that the continued expansion of the second-hand clothing (mitumba) trade threatens local production and export potential.
Speaking at the Kenya Fashion and Design Week forum on February 26, the Kenya Association of Manufacturers (KAM) said that unless policies are revised to support local textile manufacturers, Kenya risks losing out on opportunities within the African Continental Free Trade Area (AfCFTA).
KAM CEO Tobias Alando pointed out that while mitumba provides affordable clothing for many Kenyans, its growing dominance in the market is making it difficult for local manufacturers to compete—especially when compared to regional competitors with more developed textile industries.
One of the key concerns raised by industry players is the 2024 Tax Amendment Act, which has effectively made mitumba imports cheaper by exempting Import Declaration Fees (IDF), Railway Development Levy (RDL), and VAT on second-hand clothing.
“This policy shift raises critical concerns such as unfair competition, weakening industrial growth, and encouraging illicit trade,” Alando said.
He emphasized the need for a balanced approach—acknowledging the demand for second-hand clothing while ensuring that Kenya is not turned into a dumping ground for low-quality imports.
To revive the struggling textile sector, he urged the government to invest in cotton farming, textile mills, and artisan training, while formulating policies that encourage sustainability and allow Kenyan designers to compete globally.
KAM’s textile and apparel chairman, Jayesh Shah, painted a grim picture of the sector’s decline. Kenya once had about 52 textile industries, but today, that number has fallen to less than 15.
He also highlighted how poor policy decisions have stifled job creation in the industry.
“In 1991, the textile sector employed around 110,000 people. With the right policies, this industry should be employing at least 500,000 people today,” Shah noted.
The leather and footwear sector, which currently employs around 17,000 people, also remains largely untapped despite its potential to create nearly 100,000 jobs.
Manufacturers are urging policymakers to take a strategic approach—one that not only allows mitumba to exist but also strengthens local production.
Alando stressed that while second-hand clothing serves a market need, unchecked imports could cripple Kenya’s ambitions in the AfCFTA.
“The country must stop dumping and ensure only legitimate second-hand clothes enter the market,” he said.
